Making a Simple
Flute.
Introduction.
Flutes are wonderful instruments and have been around for thousands of years.
They need not be as complex as modern orchestral instruments. All you need for
a flute is a tube, a cork and some way of making half decent holes. The tube
can be made from practically anything ~ wood, bamboo, stone, glass, metal,
paper etc. The choice of UPVC tube here is practical in that it is dead easy to
work with.
If you blow air across a bottle the air column is split and curls creating a
note. This is the principle that governs the flute family.
Recorders and Whistles have a channel that shapes the air
column, in the headpiece. This then hits a blade (fipple) to produce a note.
These are surprisingly known as fipple instruments or vertical flutes.
A Shakuhachi flute has the blade but no headpiece and the air column is created
with the lips. These are very old instruments and examples have been found that
date back 14,000 years. No, that is not a typo I did mean 14,000. However they are very hard to play well.
Another group in the family is the traverse flute. Here a column of air is made
with the lips and split by one side of a hole, created in the side of the
instrument, and is usually held horizontally (traverse). These flutes are very
versatile as they are easy to make, relatively easy to play and stay well in
tune. They are the instruments most people think of when they talk about
“Flutes” and are the instruments referred to in this article.
There are other members of the flute family but they are all variants from this
basic principle. These include Panpipes, Ocarinas, Overtone flutes and Dizzi
Flutes.
When you start to make your own flutes, expect to make about three before you
get it just right for you. The first is always a bit of an experiment, the
second tends to improve your technique and design and the third produces an
instrument you will be proud of.
You will want to aim for a flute that has good volume, good tone, a good range
(two octaves and if you’re good, two and a half) and good overall tuning. This
article should enable you, with practise, to achieve this.
Making the Flute.
The Tube
So to start making you will need some 22mm diameter tube. If you are going to
play on your own you don’t need to worry about exact tunings and exact lengths
but in this case your flute will be bang in tune and able to play in sessions.
As a rule of thumb always cut a longer
length than you need. It is easy to tune a flute tube “up” by cutting small
amounts from the foot but almost impossible to tune “down” by doing the
reverse! So you will need a tube 15cm (the head) and 25cm the body
The Mouth Hole.
Now you should make a workable flute tube. Glue on the mouth plate (it makes
the note more stable but will work quite well without it) and when the glue is
set cut or drill the mouth hole. See the template. It should be about 8mm size
and slightly oval if you can manage it. The large axis of the oval should be
going up and down the flute. This is always a compromise as, the smaller the
hole the easier and more accurate the second octave notes. However the larger
the hole: the greater the volume.
Now you will need to plug the mouth hole end of the flute. This I usually do
with a cork and the help of some Vaseline grease. Sand down the cork until it
is a little bigger than the bore of the flute. Then grease it well! This bit
can sometimes end up as a battle of wills; it is you versus the flute tube. The
aim is to block the tube a distance beyond the hole. This distance is about 2/3
of the diameter of the average bore. Don’t worry to much as this will need
adjusting anyway.
Head Tuning.
Now try and get a note out of the flute! If you have never played a flute
before this may be a problem. A little practice and a couple of pints should
get you there. Blow gently and try twisting the flute slightly to get a note.
(Note: a sharp edged hole makes a windy, breathy sound, a duller edge gives
more of the note sound. Different music requires a different tone feel)
When you can repeat this note easily, try blowing much harder until the note
breaks and shifts up an octave. The notes should be the same but an octave
apart. If they are not you can shift the head plug slightly until they form
notes that are as close as you can get. Take time over this. It is the most
important step of the whole process and will govern the accuracy of the notes.
It’s also the step most people miss out and then wonder why they get flutes
that sound out of tune and duff. The Lower octave is always right so if you’re
just learning don’t panic. Make another flute when you get good enough to use
that second octave.
If you wish your flute to play with other people tune the lower note you have
by carefully slicing sections from the foot of the flute (not the mouth end)
until this note is in concert pitch. Use a tuning meter or compare it with
another instrument of known pitch. For Solo use this step is not needed.
Finger Holes.
Having got a flute that makes a note you need to drill or cut the six finger
holes. This explanation will sound very complex but as you have a printed
template to start with you can always skip this bit... Whatever you do work
slowly and always make the holes smaller than you need to start with.
The exact positioning of the holes can be a bit personal
as every ones hands are different, but the template gives an average position
guide that will do to start with. Note these holes do not need to be in a
straight line but can follow where your fingers fall naturally onto the tube.
There are some issues with finger hole positions. To make a note higher you can
make the hole larger or move the hole further from the foot the tube. To make
it lower do the reverse. These two variables can make for a lot of versions of
hole position and size but remember, the larger the hole the: louder the note,
but you need fingers large enough to cover them! If you create great
differences in hole sizes you will end up with a flute that has notes of
different volumes!
The Finger Hole Spacing.
The rough formula I use is this ~ measure the length of your flute from the
base edge to the centre of the mouth hole. Working up from the foot of the
flute the first hole will be 83% of the distance measuring down from the mouth
hole. Drill a hole just under 6mm. Then gradually enlarge this until the note
it produces when open, is the next note of a major scale up from the note when
closed. The entire sequence of hole distances is 83%, 73%, 68%, 58%, 50%, and
43%. This will give you a flute that plays a major scale, but you could make
one that plays a minor scale. If you don’t know what a major or minor scale is,
just follow the instructions. I use more than six holes but that just me!
One other thing that affects the note is, the thicker the tube the lower the
note.
Experiment. As I said at the start you will probably make three flutes to begin
with. If your first flute works perfectly I will declare you a genius.
Useful Internet Links
http://www.markshep.com/flute/books/Simple.pdf?
http://www.execpc.com/~rdmiller/flutes/flutesteps.html
Dave the flute, aka Dave Manley April 2001.
Share or do whatever you want with this article. It’s for everyone and anyone,
but just keep it free. If you want to credit it to yourself or sell it and make
money from it: then that’s up to your conscience. Whatever you do, enjoy your
flutes.